Lost in the Republic of Užupis

Within Lithuania’s capital of Vilnius, there is a neighbourhood called Užupis (literal translation: the other side of the river) which has declared itself a breakaway republic. On the 1st of April, 1997 the country declared its independence from the rest of Lithuania, and now has it’s own president (a former mayor of Vilnius), flag, constitution and an army of 11 men. It has it’s own currency, however it is only available for use on Užupis Day (April 1st). There are no embassies in Užupis, not even for Lithuania. No-one seems to be entirely sure whether the republic is a joke or not, which only adds to the charm. (If you’re interested in the concept of nations as fiction, you should check out the book Sapiens by Yuval Noah Harari.)

Photo by Jonny Blair

Once you cross the bridge over the River Vilnia, you will pass by the barliament of Užupis (not a typo, it’s actually a bar) called Užupio Kavinė. It will be on your left, if you get to the constitution you’ve gone too far. Here is where you can get your passport stamped. (At least this was the case when I visited in March 2016 – I’ve heard stories that now there are passport checks on the bridge and if you don’t have your passport with you then they will stamp your hands or face.)

The constitution is far and away the best part of the small republic. Displayed in 9 languages, it reads as follows:

1. Everyone has the right to live by the River Vilnelė, and the River Vilnelė has the right to flow by everyone.
2. Everyone has the right to hot water, heating in winter and a tiled roof.
3. Everyone has the right to die, but this is not an obligation.
4. Everyone has the right to make mistakes.
5. Everyone has the right to be unique.
6. Everyone has the right to love.
7. Everyone has the right not to be loved, but not necessarily.
8. Everyone has the right to be undistinguished and unknown.
9. Everyone has the right to idle.
10. Everyone has the right to love and take care of the cat.
11. Everyone has the right to look after the dog until one of them dies.
12. A dog has the right to be a dog.
13. A cat is not obliged to love its owner, but must help in time of need.
14. Sometimes everyone has the right to be unaware of their duties.
15. Everyone has the right to be in doubt, but this is not an obligation.
16. Everyone has the right to be happy.
17. Everyone has the right to be unhappy.
18. Everyone has the right to be silent.
19. Everyone has the right to have faith.
20. No one has the right to violence.
21. Everyone has the right to appreciate their unimportance.
22. No one has the right to have a design on eternity.
23. Everyone has the right to understand.
24. Everyone has the right to understand nothing.
25. Everyone has the right to be of any nationality.
26. Everyone has the right to celebrate or not celebrate their birthday.
27. Everyone shall remember their name.
28. Everyone may share what they possess.
29. No one can share what they do not possess.
30. Everyone has the right to have brothers, sisters and parents.
31. Everyone may be independent.
32. Everyone is responsible for their freedom.
33. Everyone has the right to cry.
34. Everyone has the right to be misunderstood.
35. No one has the right to make another person guilty.
36. Everyone has the right to be individual.
37. Everyone has the right to have no rights.
38. Everyone has the right to not to be afraid.
Do not defeat.
Do not fight back.
Do not surrender.

Some are almost poetic about the duality of man – the right to be happy, the right to be unhappy, the right to understand, the right to understand nothing, however my favourites are 13. A cat is not obliged to love its owner, but must help in time of need and 5. Everyone has the right to be unique.

If you follow the main street, Užupio Garve, past the Užupio Angel and a little bit further than seems right, you’ll reach an amazing bar called Šnekutis. You have to keep your eye out for it, because it literally looks like a shed. They have amazing food and cheap beer. https://www.facebook.com/BaraiSnekutis/

You can check out what my mate Dan (pictured above) had to say about our trip to Užupis here.

Have you visited the Republic of Užupis? Did they stamp your passport, or your face? Let me know!